Sunday, 2 February 2014

Glad to be in Gland, ravaged in Rome

The car screeched to a halt. Then another, and within minutes we could see a sea of vehicles standing in a long queue. We had just stepped near a zebra crossing and were mulling over whether to cross the road or not. With the light showers, the weather was chilly, cold enough to trembling you down to bones. 

Seeing us confused, an old woman in blue raincoat came running to us. “Gentlemen, if you are thinking of crossing the street, go and do it,” she said. “Seems you guys are new to the place. It’s the pedestrians first, if there are no streetlights around a zebra crossing.” She was kind enough to apologise in French with the first motorist in the line, for us.   

We rushed to other side of the road. Then there was a melee of vehicles zooming towards their destinations. They had stopped to let us cross the road. Even in a small place like Gland, it was like the traffic jam in neighbouring Geneva. It was the first lesson in Europe for my friend Suman and I.  

Nyon Castle

Both of us were in Europe for the first time. We had lodged in a cosy hotel in a small town called Nyon that can be reached within 18 minutes from Geneva by train. Gland is only 4 minutes’ ride from Neon. Gland is a must visit place for conservationists. Both the WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature, World Wildlife Fund in the US and Canada) and IUCN (The World Conservation Union) have their secretariats in Gland.

As it was getting darker in the evening, we scouted the place in the search for rice. How can a Nepali survive without dal-bhat (rice and lentils)? The case of my friend was more serious. He is a pure vegetarian and wherever we went, they were serving non-vegetarian food. In search of rice and vegetarian food, we had toured a whole section of Geneva Lake in Neon suburbs. Lac Leman, as the French call it, is one of the largest lakes in Western Europe.

Finally, we settled down for a Chinese restaurant. We were hungry and the walk along the lake had further upped the hunger. My friend ordered a plate of fried rice and mushroom curry while I satisfied my hunger with a plateful of chowmein. The food was yummy but the price, especially for we Nepalis, was skyrocketing. My friend had to cough 26 Euros for the food and 5 Euros for the bottle of water he had ordered to gulp down the dinner with. I was lucky. I had ordered a can of beer instead. And I paid only 3 Euros for the drink in comparison to the expensive water. My food too was cheaper than his vegetarian diet. My friend later repented on his decision to drink water.

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Within a year of my visit to the Swiss countryside, I was lucky to travel to Rome, my dream destination since schooldays. Reaching Rome, I rushed to the Colosseum, the famed arena where the gladiators fought with each other and with wild beasts to entertain the rulers and the rich.

The Colosseum, in spite of being built during the heydays of the Roman empire, still remains a colossal structure and an enigma to the visitors. The intricate design speaks of the advancement of the architects of that time.

Being in the land of pizzas and Pinocchio, I never wasted a chance to taste the Italian delicacy in every nook and cranny of the city. I didn’t even leave the pizza being sold by a roadside vendor at the Colosseum.  

Being a diehard football fan, the first thing that I did in the ancient city was to get to the Lazio headquarters. Nearby was the Prime Minister’s Office. Silvio Berlusconi was the Prime Minister at that time and I was amazed to see only few security personnel guarding the office. Comparing the heavy security in Nepal, it was nothing. Even in front of Singh Durbar, our administrative helm, there are vans of security personnel. Let’s not talk about the security convoys for the VIPs.

Having heard a lot about the Trevi Fountain, I made my way to the famed landmark, asking the way to the passers-by.  On reaching the spot, standing against the fountain, I threw a one Euro coin using the right hand over the left shoulder. Luckily, the coin splashed in the water. It meant I would get another chance to visit the place. Many tourists were hurling coins like me. An estimated 3,000 Euros are thrown into the fountain each day. With the belief of getting a chance to return to the city, I roamed through the streets. 

On the way, I met an interesting Italian. He was funny and helpful. Knowing that I am from Nepal, he started blurting out his knowledge about Nepal. The three facts: Nepal is the only country in the world having a triangular shaped flag, Buddha was born in Nepal and Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world is in Nepal. 

As we traversed the thoroughfares, he described about the monuments and Italian culture. Suddenly his face lit up. He said, “Do you know why the Italian police Carabinieri have stripes on one side of the trouser?”

“So that they don’t end up putting on the trouser the wrong way,” he giggled. Just then we noticed a Carabinieri coming towards us. Both of us could not stop laughing.

Next stop was the Spanish Steps. I ran up the steps in one go and in spite of the chilly weather savoured a cone of cold ice cream. Made famous by the film Roman Holiday, it attracts a lot many visitors.

After all the good memories, there was one bitter experience at the end of the journey. I was to board a train to the airport and to buy a ticket I took to a vending machine. As I was hitting on the buttons, an old man came to me and offered help. I thanked him for his generosity and continued the process. Later I came to know that the machine had only Italian and French languages, and both were Greek and Latin to me. So, I had to ask for the old man’s help.

The old man took the money from me and inserted inside the vending machine. He pushed the buttons but the machine stopped working. Instead, a slip with the message to collect the reimbursement at the nearby counter or airport came out of the machine. I had lost 25 Euros. There was a long queue at the nearby counter and I had no time to stand at the end of the line.

Then an old woman who was with the old man offered me few Euros in exchange of the slip. I then realised,  both of them were hand in glove to dupe me. I remembered one of my friends warning me, comparing Rome to the Bihar of India.

I quickly bought a ticket from an agent and got inside the train. The old woman was still bargaining with me. She was ready to give 20 Euros for the slip but I had made up my mind. I would try getting reimbursement at the airport.

At the airport, I easily got the money reimbursed. There was no queue and the lady at the counter apologised with a smile for the machine’s failure to deliver the ticket.

Finally, I was in the plane and tying up the seat belt. My mind was comparing the three old persons: the old woman in blue raincoat from Gland and the old couple at the railway station in Rome. Although all of them were European, one was kind and gentle and the other two were outrageously cunning.  It might be the poverty, forcing them to turn into cheats.

Read the Nepali version ग्लँकी दयालु बुढी, रोमको ठग्ने बुढो

Friday, 31 January 2014

मूर्ख माछाहरु, बुद्धिमान गंगटाहरु

हिलाम्मे छन् गह्राहरु ,
बग्दैछ पानीको भेल ,
भिज्दैछ सारा संसार ।  

उता असारे झरीमा चुहाउँदैछन् पसिना ,
छपछपे हिलो सम्याउँदै चौकीमा सवार हरिया
र जुवामा जोतिएका कैला र गोला ।


यता हलोको पछि पछि दगुर्दैछ 
हरियाको छोरो मंगला ,
गर्दै काग र बकुल्लासँग प्रतिस्पर्धा ।

भ्याई नभ्याई छ उसलाई ,
चौकीको हरेक सम्याइसँगै
सतहमा देखिने माछा र गंगटा टिप्न ।

जसो भरिन्छ डेली ,
आलीमा राखेको बाल्टिनमा
खन्याउछ मंगला आफ्नो खजाना ।

जबजब खन्याइन्छन् माछा र गंगटाहरु ,
तबतब शुरु हुन्छ
वाकयुद्ध बुद्धिमत्ता र मूर्खताको ।

गंगटाका खर्याकखुरुकका अगाडि ,
मूर्ख ठहरिन्छन् मूक माछाहरु
र बुद्धिमान दरिन्छन् दरिला गंगटाहरु ।

अनि आफ्नो मूर्खतादेखि दिक्क भई
बाल्टिनबाट बाहिर
फाल हाल्छन् माछाहरु ।

बुद्धिमान गंगटाहरु एक आपसमा
फेरि को सर्वोत्तम भनी गर्छन् विवाद ।
बाल्टिन बाहिर पाइला सार्न खोज्नेको
झुण्डन्छन् खुट्टामा
र बजार्छन फेरि एक अर्कालाई
बाल्टिनकै पींधमा ।

त्रिशंकु 
१७ माघ २०७०, काठमाडौं

The 5 senses and 3 Ds of drinking

(c) Morguefile.com

It’s good Friday and many of you must be thinking of joining your friends for a drink. For me, whenever I join a new group of friends, I ask them two questions.

The first question goes like this.

"Do you know why we clink the glasses before drinking?"   

I get many responses but I have never had the right answer. By right answer, I mean to say the answer that I want.

By the way, do you know why?

If not, here is the answer. It’s quite simple.

We have five sensory organs: the skin, the eyes, the nose, the tongue and the ears. While drinking, the drinker touches the glass with skin (hand), sees the drink with eyes, smells the drink with nose and tastes with tongue. But the ears, they are not used at all. So to arouse all the five senses at a time, the drinkers clink the glasses together and the ears also get a chance to involve in the celebration. And when all the senses are involved, you enjoy to the hilt!

Taking cue from this, the marketers have come up with the sensory branding.

Now, the second question.

"Do you know the formula of safe drinking?" So that, whatever you drink, whenever you drink and how much you drink, you never get drunk . And you never have hangover the next day.

Before anybody replies, I have the answer ready.

“It’s 3 Ds.”

The first D is duration. Take your time while drinking. Never go for a binge drinking.

The second D is dilution. Make sure to mix ample water to the drink. However, if you are a connoisseur, drink it neat but drink water in between. It saves you from dehydration.

The third and final D is diet. Don’t drink like a drunkard, just for the sake of drinking. Take fruits, salad and other tid bits while drinking. It again minimises the effect of alcohol.

So, next time you start drinking, think of the 5 senses and remember the 3 Ds.

Cheers!    

Saturday, 18 January 2014

ग्लँकी दयालु बुढी, रोमको ठग्ने बुढो

घ्याच्च ब्रेक लाग्यो । जेब्रा क्रसिङ्गनेर गएर उभिएका मात्रै के थियौ, गाडीहरुको त ताँती लागिसकेछ हाम्रा अगाडि । सिमसिम पानी परिरहेको थियो र चिसो हावाले मुटु कमाइरहेको थियो । यतिकैमा एउटी बुढीआमा दौडेर हामीनेर आईन र तत्काल बाटो काट्न आग्रह गरिन् । हामीले तिनले भनेझै सुटुक्क सडक पार गर्यौ ।

पारिपट्टि पुग्नासाथ शुरु भइहाल्यो मोटरहरुको कोलाहल । मात्र दुई मिनेट के रोकिएका थिए, गाउँ भनिने ग्लँमा त छिमेकी शहर जिनेभाझै ट्राफिक जाम पो भएछ । र त्यो पनि हामी दुई नेपालीका कारण ।

पछि निलो रङ्गको वर्षाती लगाएकी ती बुढीआमैले भनिन् , “यहाँ, ट्राफिक बत्ती नभएको जेब्रा क्रसिङ्गमा बाटो काट्ने पहिलो अधिकार पदयात्रीको हुन्छ ।” त्यसैले ती सारा गाडी चालक हामीले बाटो काट्लान भनी पर्खीबसेका रहेछन् । मेरो साथी सुमन र मेरालागि नौलो सिकाइ थियो त्यो ।

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पहिलो पटक स्वीट्जरल्याण्ड पुगेका हामी दुईलाई झिसमिस हुनथालेपछि दालभातको यादले सताउन थाल्यो । मेरो साथीलाई थप अर्को समस्याले पिरोलिरहेको थियो । शुद्ध शाकाहारी भएकाले जताततै बग्रेल्ती मासु मासु मात्र देख्दा कम हैरान थिएनन् उनी । भात र शाकाहारी खाना खोज्दा खोज्दै हामीले त जिनेभा तालको एउटा सम्पूर्ण खण्ड नै पार गरिसकेछौ ।

हामी जिनेभा भन्दा ट्रेनले १८ मिनेटमा ल्याइपुर्याउने नियोन भन्ने सानो शहरमा बसेका थियौ र ताल छेउका लगभग सबै रेश्त्राँ चाहारिसकेका थियौं । अन्त्यमा सम्झौता गर्नै पर्ने भयो । एउटा चाइनिज रेश्त्राँमा छिरेर भेज फ्राइड राइस र मशरुम करी अर्डर गरे मेरा मित्रले । म चाहिं चिकेन चाउमिनमै रमाए । साथमा एक क्यान बियर नि घुट्क्याए । मेरो साथीले एक बोतल पानी मगाए, मैले चाहिं धाराकै पानी पिउने निधो गरे । मेरो बुबा स्वीट्जरल्याण्डमै पढ्नुभएकोले धाराकै पानी खाने सल्लाह पाएको थिए ।

खाना खाँदासम्म त साह्रै मज्जा भो तर पैसा तिर्दा भने दाँतबाट पसिना तरतर चुहियो । भेज खानाको मात्र मेरो साथीले २६ यूरो चुक्ता गर्नुपर्यो साथै पानीको ५ यूरो थप । म चाहिं सस्तोमै उम्किए । बियरको पनि ३ यूरो मात्र तिर्नुपरेपछि पानी किन पिएछु भनेर पछुताए मेरा मित्र ।

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स्वीट्जरल्याण्ड गएको वर्ष दिनमै इटलीको रोम जाने मौका जुर्यो। स्कूल पढ्दादेखिन नै रोम जाने मेरो धोको पूरा भएकोमा म गद्गद् थिए । फूटबलको डाइहार्ड फ्यान भएकोले पहिला लाजियोको  प्रमुख कार्यालय पुगे । त्यसको अघिल्तिरै तत्कालिन प्रधानमन्त्री सिल्भियो बर्लुस्कोनीको कार्यालय रहेछ । अचम्मको कुरो त के रहेछ भने त्यत्रो शक्तिशाली राष्ट्रका प्रमुखको कार्यालय कुर्ने नाममात्रका सिपाही रहेछन् । हाम्रो त सिंहदरबार अगाडि पनि फौज नै तैनाथ रहन्छ ।

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त्यहाँको ट्रेभी फाउन्टेनका बारेमा पनि धेरै सुनेकाले बाटो सोधी सोधी पुगे । अनि फाउन्टेनतिर ढाड फर्काएर दाहिने हातले देब्रे काँधमाथिबाट १ यूरोको ढ्याक पानीतर्फ हुर्याए । आफूलाई भाग्यमानी भएझै महशूस भयो । त्यो पैसा ठ्याक्क पानीमा परेछ । नतिजा — अर्को पटक पनि त्यहाँ पुग्ने मौका जुर्नेछ भन्ने विश्वास । त्यही विश्वासका साथ गल्ली गल्ली चहारे ।

घुम्दाघुम्दै बाटामा एउटा रमाइला इटालियन फेला परे । उनलाई नेपालका बारे राम्रै जानकारी रहेछ । यतिसम्म कि नेपालको झण्डा दुई त्रिकोणले बनेको छ, बुद्ध नेपालमै जन्मिएका थिए र सगरमाथा नेपालमा पर्छ भन्नसम्म भ्याए उनले । केहि बेर सँगै रुमल्लिए पछि इटालियन पुलिस क्याराबिनिएरीका बारे ठट्टा गर्दै भने, “यी क्याराबिनिएरी यतिबिध्न बुद्धु हुन्छन् कि सुरुवाल उल्टो लगाउलान् भनेर एउटा पाटामा मात्र स्पष्ट देखिने धर्का जोडिएका हुन्छन् ।” नभन्दै भने जस्तै सुरुवाल लगाएको क्याराबिनिएरी देखियो र हामी दूवै मरीमरी हाँस्न थाल्यौ ।

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जम्मा दुई दिनको बसाइ अत्यन्त रमाइलो गरी बित्यो । त्यतिञ्जेल आफूलाई मरिहत्ते मनपर्ने पिज्जा त कति चट पारियो कति, भनेर साध्यै भएन । आखिर इटली न पर्यो , पिज्जाको देश । झन ग्ल्याडिएटरहरु लड्ने भव्य कोलोसियम अगाडि त ठेलागाडामै बेचिरहेको इटालियन रोटी खाइयो ।

अन्त्यमा एअरपोर्टका लागि मेट्रो समाउन रोम रेल्वे स्टेशन पुगेको मात्र के थिए, टिकट काट्न सघाइदिन्छु भन्दै एउटा बुढाबा मतिर आए । म चाहिं नाथे टिकट काट्न नि किन चाहियो सहयोग भनी भेन्डिङ्ग मशिनतर्फ लागे । मशिनहरु धेरै भए पनि कुनैमा पनि अंग्रेजी भाषा रहेनछ । कि त इटालियन, कि त फ्रेञ्च । आफूलाई दूवै नआउने । हारेर आखिर तिनै बुढाबासँग सघाईमागे ।

बुढा खुशी हुँदै मद्दत गर्न जोस्सिए । मसँग २५ यूरो लिई मशिनमा छिराए अनि के थिचे के, टिकट चाहिं निक्लेन । पैसामात्र निल्यो त्यो मशिनले । बुढा चाहि मशिनलाई धिक्कार्दै खत्र्याकखुत्रुक पार्न थाले । अन्त्यमा एउटा स्लीप निक्लियो, त्यसमा मशिनको गडबडीका लागि क्षमा मागिएको थियो र त्यस बापत स्टेशन या एअरपोर्ट जहाँ पनि रकम फिर्ता हुने उल्लेख गरिएको थियो ।

पर्यो  फसाद । पैसा फिर्ता लिन लाइन लागौ भने बडेमाको लाइन सकिञ्जेल ट्रेन छुट्ला भन्ने पीर, उता एअरपोर्टमा नि त्यस्तै भीड होला भन्ने चिन्ता । त्यतिकैमा ती बुढासँगै रहेकी बुढीआमैले त्यो स्लीपको साटो केही यूरो दिने प्रस्ताव गरिन् । हुन पनि कागजमात्र राख्नुभन्दा कौडीदाम लिनु उचित नै देखिन्थ्यो तर ती दूवै बुढाबुढी मिलेर उल्लू बनाएको प्रष्ट भो । अनि मात्र मेरा एक मित्रले इटली त यूरोपको बिहार हो भनेको सम्झे । हो रहेछ ।

अनि पैसाको माया मार्दै केही यूरो बढी तिरेर कमिशन एजेन्टको बाट टिकट काटे । ती दूवै बुढाबुढी चाहिं मलाई अन्त्यसम्म पछ्याउदै थिए, हरेकपल्ट एक एक एक यूरो बढाउँदै मसँग भएको स्लीप लिन चाहन्थे । तर म चाहिं फेरि पनि ठगिन चाहन्नथे ।

गह्रुँङ्गो मनका साथ मेट्रोमा चढे । ती बुढाबुढी चाहिं २० यूरोसम्म दिन राजी भए तर मनले मानेन । केही मिनेटको यात्रा पश्चात एअरपोर्ट पुगे । समयमै पुगेकोले रकम भुक्तानी पाउने ठाउँ सोधे । भाग्यवश त्यो काउन्टर नजिकै रहेछ र लाइन पनि रहेनछ । स्लीप दिनासाथ रकम फिर्ता पाए र साथमा मुस्कान पनि । मशिनका कारण दुःख भएकोमा खेद प्रकट गरिन् ती महिलाले ।

प्लेनमा चढिसकेर पेटी कस्दै थिए, मेरा आँखा अगाडि एक वर्ष अघिकी दयालु बुढीआमा र केही मिनेट अघि ठग्न खोज्ने बुढाबुढी झल्झली आउन थाले । ती तिनैजना यूरोपेली भएपनि एउटी सभ्य र दयालु थिइन् भने पछिल्लो पटक भेटिएका बुढाबुढी साह्रै नै ज्याद्रा र ठग थिए । शायद विवशताले होला ।            

Saturday, 4 January 2014

Eight reasons to visit Rajbiraj

Rajdevi Temple (c) Swapnil Acharya
Colourful dresses, warm hospitality and tasty food. This sums up your experience in Rajbiraj. In spite of the sweltering heat (currently the chilly cold wave), dusty and bumpy roads, encroached alleyways, open drains and stray pigs there are multitude reasons to visit Rajbiraj, the first planned city of Nepal. As claimed by the locals. Rajbiraj derives its name from the famous temple Rajdevi Mandir.

People here dress in bright colours like in many other Terai districts. It’s a photographer’s delight to capture a melange of colours passing through the narrow alleyways. The dots of red, yellow and blue in a near perfect green field that turns into a sea of yellow in the month of November, is another rare sight to be captured.

Highly influenced by the egalitarian Mithila culture, people here speak in soft tones. They respect people from outside and make them feel at home. Even people speaking other dialects and languages imitate the softness of Maithili language.

The food tastes best here. Be it the morning time poori jalebi (wheat flour circular chapati-like bread fried in oil and circular coil like syrupy sweet) or the evening time jalkhai, snacks comprising puffed rice, chickpea, pakoda, kachodi (resembling vegetable tempura), amadike chutney (turmeric-like spice with raw mango’s taste and smell) and fried green chillies – both are mouth-watering.

An old man enjoying jalkhai (c) Swapnil Acharya
The sweets especially laddoos are the best. Peda, small sweets made from milk from nearby Barmajhiya is famous throughout Nepal. But beware to locate the real Budhoko Pasal (old man's shop). There are hordes of shops selling pedas with huge hoarding boards claiming to be the genuine shop. The original shop lies adjacent to the Armed Police Force centre. 
 
If you are a pan connoisseur, then you must taste the pan in Rajbiraj. Owing to its taste and the skill of the pan makers, Saptary Pan Bhandar and Sagarmatha Pan Bhandar are famous throughout Nepal including the capital.



Rajbiraj is also famous for fish. Once you eat Jalkapoor from Koshi River, you won't feel like eating other fishes. But beware of the Jalkapoor being sold at NRs 300 plus in Kathmandu and other metros. You can imagine – the fish sells at NRs 500 plus in Koshi Barrage itself, the place of origin. As far as I know the fishes sold in name of the famous fish from Koshi is imported from Andhra Pradesh and other states of India, and they are obviously not the Jalkapoor.

Other famous fishes from Rajbiraj are Rohu, Bhakur, Naini, common carp, silver carp, bighead and grass carp. I don't know the trade name or scientific name of one of the local varieties called Kotri, but it is really tasty. If you are in Saptary, try eating the fish. It's finger licking good.

Saptary is turning into Nepal's mango basket. The foothills of Churia, once considered useless, is adorned with mango orchards. Not even a single strip is vacant – most places in the Churia foothills are already bearing orchards while few patches are fast catching up with the rest. Maldah, Bombay, Dashhari all varieties from Saptary has its own peculiar taste. In the future it's going to be the mango district, if One District One Product (ODOP) concept is well promoted.

If you are a religious buff, then Chinnamasta, Kankalini and Sambhunath are the places to visit. Chhinnamasta, the Goddess sans head, is one of the major attractions. Hordes of Hindu pilgrims from neighbouring India and all parts of Nepal visit the temple, one of the Shakti Peeths, to pay obeisance to the Goddess. Nearby is the famous Kankalini Temple near the Koshi Barrage. On the Ashtami and Nawami (eighth and ninth days of Dashami festival), the temple witnesses innumerable sacrifices of buffaloes and goats. Sambhunath is situated around 12 kilometres north-west of Rajbiraj. The temple sees pilgrims from Nepal and India throughout the month of Baishakh (April-May).   

It’s easy and super cheap to get to Rajbiraj. Magic (small van), with people packed like sardines, will take you to the city at NRs 20 per passenger from Rupani, the roundabout on the East-West Highway.

So, when are you visiting Rajbiraj? 

All photos by (c) Swapnil Acharya.
Video on Paan from Saptari by Story Cycle.

Wednesday, 25 December 2013

Odisha odyssey II

The famous OTDC bus
Leaving the Chandrabhaga beach, we drove on the marine drive leading to the famous religious town of Puri. There was something special about the Odisha Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC) bus. It ferried the India and Australia teams to Cuttack.

The bus driver and conductor narrated the story to our Oriya friend. Then he translated the experience to us. They were kept in 24-hour scrutiny for days ahead of the trip to Cuttack. While driving the team to Cuttack, a cavalcade of security personnel accompanied the bus. Not only that, during the entire match period, they remained in the bus guarded by tight security. They were thoroughly checked before even entering the bus. The bus itself was checked many a times to ensure that nothing suspicious was lying around. Still they were happy to tell that they served the cricket players who are held as superstars in the country.     

I imagined – might be the helicopter shot hitter Mahendra Singh Dhoni or the prolific run machine Virat Kohli had occupied the seat I was sitting on.

Lord Jagannath and the largest open-air hotel in the world
While driving from Chandrabhaga to Puri, our host friend told us the importance of the Jagannath Temple. Being one of the major four Dhamas (the most sacred centre of pilgrimage and worship) for the Hindus, the temple and the surroundings remains crowded most of the time. And only Hindus are allowed inside the temple premises. Our friend also admonished us not to be trapped by the Pandas, the priests at the Jagannath Temple. They start following the pilgrims and dupe them in the pretence of leading to the darshan (sighting) and pooja (worship) of the deities Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra in the temple.

The Jagannath Temple, also known as White Pagoda, has four gates – the east facing is called the Lions Gate and the ones facing north, south and west are similarly known as the Elephant Gate, the Horse Gate and the Tiger Gate respectively. The temple is said to have been built by emperor Anangabhimadeva, historically identified as Angangabhima III belonging to Ganga dynasty. Some historians are of the opinion that the construction commenced during the reign of emperor Chodagangadeva, the founder of the dynastic rule in Odisha.

As we entered the temple along with the sea of other people, we had to cross two barricades of Pandas to get the darshan of Lord Jagannath from a distance. In spite of the cacophony of the crowd peace and tranquillity prevailed in the premises. There was a feeling indescribable, the devotion overflowed from within. 

While I was doing rounds of the temple, a huge crowd had gathered at the eastern end of the temple. All necks were craned towards the temple top. A Panda was climbing the 214 feet and 8 inches tall temple to change the flag. It was a daring task and even more dangerous to climb the platform on top of the Shikhara (Sanskrit word for mountain peak, Hindu temples are either of pagoda style or shikhara style).

We waited for a while, watched the spectacle and then went to Anand Bazaar (Happy Market), the largest open-air hotel in the world, as described by our friend from Bhubaneswar. There are stalls everywhere having huge earthenware pots containing cooked rice, dal (cooked lentils) and different types of vegetable curry and sweets. The good thing about the stalls is that devotees irrespective of caste and creed eat the Mahaprasada (offered to Lord Jagannath) together. The blessed offering (prasad) is called Mahaprasad as it is believed that Lord Vishnu bathes at Rameswaram, meditates at Badrinath, dines at Puri and rests at Dwarika. Dry sweets are also available at the Anand Bazaar which are preferred by the tourists to carry back home.

Towering Lingaraja
Returning back to Bhubaneswar, I visited Lingaraj, the largest temple in Bhubaneswar. The 180 feet towering temple is dedicated to Harihara, a form of Lord Shiva. Harihara is referred as Tribhuvaneswara (also called Bhubaneswar), the master of three worlds – heaven, earth and netherworld. It's a must visit site in Bhubaneswar. But only Hindus are allowed inside the temple.    

The temple is believed to be built by the Somavanshi king Jajati Keshari in 11th century.

Missed Chilika
Luckily, I had to go to Aska in Ganjam district of Odisha. I had wanted to visit the place since the cyclone Phailin struck on 12 October 2013. On the way, I could estimate the size of catastrophe. Everywhere I could see huge trees uprooted. Houses were damaged and at places the destruction done could be seen in the fields.   

Returning back to Bhubaneswar, we stopped by a roadside tea stall. Like mango trees on planted along the highway in Nepal, cashew nut trees adorn the roadside. The tree was new to me and to my camera as well!

While sipping tea, I roamed around the small shops making a beeline along the National Highway. At the end of the shops few women vendors were selling fish. Seeing a horde of varieties I asked the source and to my surprise one of the ladies said Chilika.

Being a conservation enthusiast, I had heard a lot about Chilika Lake. Chilika is the largest lagoon in India and ranks second in the world. It is a Ramsar site of international significance and home to many migratory birds during the winter season. Covering an area of over 1,100 square kilometres, it is lifeline for many villages and fishermen residing in the area.   


When I clicked pictures of the catch, the fisherwoman requested me to take a snap of her as well. I obliged and showed her the photo. She smiled back and offered me a fish.     

Nearby another lady was selling crabs from Chilika. They looked so different from the ones found in our part of the world. I could not wait to get Chilika. So I asked the driver to take us to the shores of Chilika. However, it was already dark and there was no point visiting the site. With heavy heart, I had to return to Bhubaneswar. It was a missed chance. A precious one. After that I kept mum throughout the journey. 

Odisha odyssey I


The elastic Gotipua dancers
Young boys dressed in yellow were lined up for the show. The cool breeze was making the audience shiver with the chill. I was feeling sorry for the boys who had kept long hair-dos and looked like girls. They had been invited to perform the famous Gotipua dance at the inaugural of the Knowledge Conclave. In Oriya language, "Goti" means "single" and "pua" means "boy". The master of ceremony announced that the dance is performed by the boys dressed up as girls to praise Lord Jagannath. In old times, female dancers called "Devadasi (Mahari in Odisha)" used to devote their lives to Lord Jagannath. With the decline of Mahari dancers, the boy dancers took their places to continue the tradition.

         
As the boys started dancing to the tunes of harmonium and drumbeats, we were left aghast at the acrobatic manoeuvrings of the boys. They demonstrated the life and times of Krishna. Especially, when they climbed above each other to form a human pyramid, the spectators were kept gaping at the show. The elasticity of their bodies suggested that they might have started learning the dance from an early age.

Sambalpuri dance and mobile magic
The second day we were amazed by the performance of equally talented troupe of Sambalpuri dancers from Sambalpur, a place more than 500 kilometres from Bhubaneswar. They danced and made all of us dance to their thrilling beats. The dance and songs were as colourful as the saris worn by the female dancers. The male drummer was beating the drum and screaming with all his might to enthuse the fellow dancers.

Sambalpuri, the festive group dance tracks its origins to the Kosal region of Eastern India. The dance is performed by the rural people and is thought to relieve them from the day's hard work.
The dancers danced in groups and also performed solo dances. When one dancer was to perform, the music arranger played a track different than that of her choice. She then took the music instrument which was apparently a cellular phone. She was dancing to the tunes of a mobile! 

The Sun Temple in scaffoldings
In Konark, the Sun Temple also known as Black Pagoda, is a mystery in itself. As you enter the premises, the grandiose structure demeans you down to earth. We were guided inside the premises by an old man in his late sixties. His English was humorous and he didn't leave a chance to break the limbs of English.


As per his explanation, the Sun Temple is a wonder and an object of happiness to all – children, young and old. Children can enjoy looking at the bottom slabs having monuments of animals like horses and elephants. Young can get pleasures by beholding the statues depicting different Kamasutra aasanas (positions). The top slab comprises idols of gods and goddesses that are objects of obeisance for old people. According the old guide all enjoy coming to Konark and get full "satisfaction" at the temple.

The Sun Temple was built in the 13th century by King Narasimhadev I of Ganga dynasty. The temple was carved as Sun God Surya's chariot with seven horses and 24 wheels. The old man said, "The seven horses depict seven days in a week and the 24 wheels the 24 hours in a day."

 
The beauty of Sun Temple is unparalleled. However, the scaffolding covering the main temple in the name of restoration, made us unhappy. The UNESCO World Heritage Site which derives its name from the Sanskrit words, Kona (corner) and Arka (sun), has turned into a caged structure. In contrast to the Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore's words on the temple "Here the language of stone surpasses the language of man", it seemed "Here the cacophony of scaffolding surpasses the beauty of the temple".   

Poor Olive Ridley on the shore
After visiting the Black Pagoda, we went to the beach near the confluence of Kushbhadra River and sea (Bay of Bengal) at Chandrabhaga. The cool sea breeze was adding to the fun. Some of us jumped into the white waves. I was clicking the pictures.

While I was busy clicking the white froths, I spotted a small dark object floating against the waves. As it neared the beach the waves overturned it. I could then sense, it was a giant Olive Ridley turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea). It might have come to the shore to lay eggs.   

Every year hundred thousands of Olive Ridleys come to shores of Odisha for the mass nesting and hatching. The mass nesting is called "arribada". I had just seen the vulnerable turtles and their hatchlings making for the seas in Discovery and National Geographic channels. It was a rare sight.


However, my excitement was meant only for few seconds. The poor turtle had wounds on its neck and it breathed its last on my laps. The casting nets might have wounded the poor thing. The only thing I could do was to caress its shell and take a parting snap.